I followed the instructions and the two keels got in the way of applying pressure to the center portion of the hull – meaning I had to hold the halves together by hand for about 30 minutes, while very wide and strong rubber bands held the rest of the hull. Doing so will allow you to use any and all means available to clamp the two halves together while the glue is drying. The instructions begin with attaching a bilge keel to each side of the main hull, but I would suggest that you attach these after putting the two halves of the hull together. Study the boat you want to build so you can decide which holes to open up and where you want to place the guns, etc. Since no two Gato-class submarines were exactly alike, Revell gives you several options as far as placement of the deck weaponry and other significant detail. It’s slow drying time and the solid bond after drying was critical to bringing some of the larger and more cumbersome parts to heel. You should also think about starting with a full bottle of glue – I found that Testors ‘Black Bottle’ liquid cement was the only product up to the task. With the Gato, you will need a lot of clamps and a lot of room. One issue I had was the lack of sprue letters, which forced me to look over all nine sprues for a lot of the smaller pieces identified (with letters!) in the instructions. The parts count is relatively low, so Revell kept things pretty simple. Most steps contain simple images with notes scattered here and there to assist when needed. The instructions include a handy, four-page parts list with the proper nautical names to help those of us not used to terms like ‘Breech Caps’ ‘Sight Trim Boxes’.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |